
Hi D S and welcome to Beans Community,
Did you make sure to enable Development mode in your Admin->Appearance->Settings? Make sure this is enable when working on your site.
Have func,

Yep, it's enabled. So this morning the #333 background is set, per that CSS.
But when I change it now, nothing happens. Seems a caching issue? Could it be my host?

It seems to be that. I went with a local install and it's working as expected.
Cheers!

Yep, if your host has any sort of caching, you should disable it while working on the site 😉